Key Inputs
- Distance from Harihareshwar: 9 Kms through road. Also keep in mind a Ferry travel is required to cross River Savitri
- Time: 45 mins, including 20 mins of boat ride.
- Distance from Dapoli– 47 Kms
- Ferry timings: Normally starts from 0730 AM. But in the Monsoon it works from 09.30 AM onwards every 2 hours from Bagmandala. From Vesvi the return starts from 10 AM and then every 2 hours. Visit www.carferry.in
- Tickets aee not available online nor can you book in advance
- The road (in few places) towards the Fort are quite narrow and thus please drive with caution
- Entry to the Fort is Free and it is opened 24 hours. Better to avoid visting after sun down.
- Recomended duration of stay at the Fort : 30 mins
History of Bankot Fort
This small yet beautiful fort on the top of a Hill is known by many names. As it passed hands from one ruler to the another it was renamed but its identity as a fort to keep watch on the trade route across the River Savitri remained unchanged.
While researching about Bankot fort I was stunned to learn that the first recorded evidence of this fort was found in the writing of the famous Greek traveller Ptolemy, living in the 1st Century AD. At that time the fort was referred to as Mandargiri or Mandgor or Nanaguna. I also learnt that the renowned Chinese scholar Hieun Tsang visited the fort in 640AD. While the Fort would have undergone reconstruction over the years it is just mindboggling to imagine that we have a fort that has stood the test of our Calendar.
Strangely I could not find any writing about the fort from the 7th to the 13th Century, as if it vanished in thin air. In the 14th Century, Adil Shah of the Bijapur dynasty was ruling the entire Deccan plateau and even the Konkan belt. The Fort again came into the limelight when the Portuguese won the Fort from the Bijapur dynasty in 1548. Almost 152 years later the Admiral of Maratha Navy Kanhoji Angre won over the fort in 1700 and renamed it Himmatgad.
After Kanhoji passed away his two sons Sarfoji and Sambhaji ruled for a short period of time. However, Kanhoji had four other children out of Wedlock. Among them, Thulaji was known to be the most skilful and able Seaman and he was constantly in a brawl with Manaji( brother) to establish his claim to the Angre thrown. During that time Nanasaheb Peshwa ( son of Bajirao Peshwa) tried to intervene but to no avail. His noble intention of keeping the Marathas together was thrown away to the wind.
Thulaji made it amply clear that the Peshwa is not his superior and he should stay away from his path. Probably this arrogance was because Chattrapati Sahu had high regard for him and appointed him as Admiral of the Maratha navy. This tactless prejudice cost him dear as history suggests.
After the death of Chattrapati Sahu, the Peshwas became all-powerful and eventually joined hands with the British forces. What followed was the Battle of Vijaydurg and the downfall of Thulaji. In 1755 Himmatgad was surrendered to the British fleet and the British lost no time in rechristening Himmatgad as Fort Victoria. However, they soon realised it is economically not viable to manage the fort and understandably handed the fort to the Peshwas. The Fort was renamed as Bankot basis the name of the locality
The journey to Bankot
When I visited Harihareshwar my sole intention was to lounge on the balcony of MTDC- Harihareshwar. The time was to be spent lazily sipping beverages and reading a novel or writing travel stories of my past. I was yearning for a laid back weekend gateway free from the trepidation of the Pandemic. Bust destiny had its own plan!
The journey to Harihareshwar had its own share of thrill, but that is for another blog. On checking in to the resort (1630 hrs) I went about executing my plan by lounging on the balcony. The spectacular view was mesmerising and to make it better my heart longed for a black coffee. It is at that time I realised that the room service was not available as per the pandemic protocol.
Better I thought, as I have heard about the Sea facing restaurant of the resort from my friends. Thus, in a whisker, I was there and found myself a seat by the window. I was marvelling at the ferocious power of the rain-fed Savitri River as it meets the Sea. The Sea was looked equally wild and dangerous with the dark Monsoon cloud hovering in the sky. It was as if a great struggle for supremacy was going on between the mighty river and the boundless sea.
My thoughts were distracted by the noise of the coffee cup being placed on the table. I smiled and thanked the Server for his prompt service and went back to scanning the landscape. After a small sip, I purposely avoided my glance towards the fearsome water and concentrated my attention on the mountain. All of a sudden the cloud cleared and something resembling a Fort came alive on the top of a mountain.
I desperately started to search the area on Google Maps but the low network prohibited it and enhanced my restlessness. My server was back and looking at the anxiety he enquired if everything is alright. On hearing my query he smiled and said that I can visit it only tomorrow. He advised me to drive to the Pier and catch the 0930 AM ferry to cross the river. unfortunately, I did not pay much attention to the time which brought in some anxiety the next day.
The evening was well spent researching about the fort and making all plans for the next day. The next morning after a hearty breakfast, I set off for Bagmandala Ferry terminal, forgetting the quintessential timing of the ferry. The short drive( 4 Kms) to the Ferry terminal was a pleasant one through a meandering village road with River Savitri accompanying for half of the way.
On arriving at the Terminal I found the Ferry on its way to the Veshvi terminal. The shock of missing the boat only worsened when the ticket collector informed me that the next ferry was 2 hours later. To get rid of melancholy I started clicking pictures but realised that my appetite to shoot won’t last for 2 long hours. Thus, running out of options I decided to drive to Harihareshwar and pay my reverence to the deity of Kal Bhairavi.
On entering the temple premised I learnt the temple was closed due to Covid. My frustration on my face might have been evident coz the priest took pity and allowed to pay a visit for a few minutes. It was a clear signal that my luck was turning around. I made the best of the opportunity and prayed for the well being of all during these trying times.
If my readers visit this temple please ask for the route to Shukl Teerth Viewpoint. This can be accessed by a small lane behind the temple. In Monssonthe rainwater gushes down the mountain making it unsafe. Therefore it remains closed during this time. The view is fascinating especially during Sunset. The sea is choppy and the area rocky thus it is advisable to avoid unnecessary acrobats for your own safety.
After paying my obeisance I took a stroll to the black beach of Harihareshwar. Around 11 am I started driving back towards the Ferry terminal to avoid any further mishap. Being early I had to wait for the ticket counter to operate. After that, I waited patiently behind 2 other vehicles, while the ferry was yet to arrive.
When boarding actually started the vehicles in front of me drove straight in. When it was my turn I was asked to reverse and drive back to the ferry. At that moment it sounded crazy but in reality, it was a cakewalk. This unexpected activity made me relish this moment and made me realize anything which out of the way is always extraordinarily pleasant
Passengers can sit inside their vehicles during the ride. However, I decided to sit on the deck to get the pulse from the locals. The ferry is the only mode of transportation that was quickly filled to capacity. I was thoroughly impressed by the punctuality of the ferry which ran dot by the clock.
The ride was extremely enjoyable as the boat moved slowly over the raging waters of the River. There was a boy seated beside me with whom I tried to start a conversation. But, he remained taciturn even after repeated attempts. I almost gave up when another boy ( Avneeh) approached me and struck a chord with me.
Apart from the general chit chat, he mentioned this year the rains have been incessant. The river is flowing closer to the danger mark and if the rain continues the Ferry might be suspended. The passengers sitting beside us also nodded in unison.
Trying to create a contingency plan in my mind, I asked Avnesh, ” How will you reach Harihareshwar if that happens”?
Avneesh casually remarked, ” My aunt stays on the other side so I will stay back in her house”
I realised it is better to come to the point and asked him directly, ” I have to return to Harihareshwar. Is there any other road if the ferry shuts down “
Avneesh did not know thus asked other passengers in Marathi. A young man informed that the roadway will take 3 hours if the bridge is not already washed away! Needless, to see this piece of information was not comforting at all. If you recollect I did mention a thrilling journey on my way to Harihareshwar, at the beginning of this blog. My mind raced back when I turned back 18 Kms because the same road was washed away by the river. My heart sank when Google maps pointed towards the same bridge to return to Harihareshwar!
It was now my turn to remain reticent to avoid the despondency in my heart to show on my face. It was evident I am a bade faker because the young chap found humour and started who started giggling on my condition.
Then with a heavy voice, he told me reassuringly, “It is not raining heavily from the morning. So you do not need to worry” I did not comment but in my heart, I agreed to him because I have no control over the rain! Also, his reassurance somehow pepped up spirits and made me believe that nothing can go wrong. I guess humans just need a bit of reassurance to create hope.
On reaching Veshvi I started driving towards the fort. It was supposedly 15 minutes drive which took me 45 minutes ! Well, I will disclose the reason shortly.
The road was narrow and the monsoon acted as a catalyst to grow the bushes by leaps and bound. At many turns, the thick vegetation created blind spots forcing me to me slow down quite a bit. But this was not the reason for me taking 45 minutes. Actually, I took a wrong turn and landed back on the banks of River Savitri.
Thankfully I realised the mistake early because the Fort has to be on the top of the hill. On enquiring with passersby on the road my conviction was seconded. But for some reason, they suggested visiting Velas beach popular for Olive Ridleys. I was quite 2 Kms from the beach and thus the decision was easy.
The Turtle festival happens between Feb- May every year. It was the middle of July but I still thought it was my lucky day. But, there was not a single turtle on site. The positive outcome was my interactions with the villagers who provided me clarity to plan a trip during the festival. At that time an elderly gentleman approached me and asked if I am going to the Fort. When I nodded affirmatively he requested to take him along with me.
It turned out he stays near the fort in a humble village. Every day he comes down to pick up provisions and run a few errands for income. He also enlightened me about historical facts about the fort, which I have mentioned in the blog. I always believe people are good and can be trusted. I have never been reluctant to offer a lift or lend a hand to strangers. So far it has helped me in good stead and I wish this bonding of humanity will keep the planet going.
There were some spots leading to the Fort which are quite narrow and equally dangerous. In fact, I was stuck at a turning where two vehicles cannot pass each other. In such a situation, the vehicle going upward should reverse, which I followed resulting in resolving the bottleneck smoothly. Please do not allow your ego to come in way of this simple rule
There is no designated parking at the Fort. Thus I drove all the way to the entrance gate. The first view catching my attention was the might Savitri river flowing to the Sea and the beautiful white waves bouncing up and down the beach. It was a magical moment and I stood there admiring the beauty of the land, completely losing track of time.
Finally when my heart contended I decided to dedicate my attention to the Special Fort. The majestic entrance gate did not have large and heavy doors with Iron rods as seen in almost all Indian forts. Inside the entry gate, I observed small storage facilities on the right and a small courtyard for soldiers to rest. Beyond the gate, the fort opened up to a large courtyard with stairs across all sides to the Upper level
Bankot fort was constructed to keep a vigil on the Trade route and take evasive action if the need arises. However, this was not a Fort for an armed conflict with the enemy and thus it was not heavily fortified. One should visit this fort for the unparallel view of the River, Sea and the mountains on all sides. Monsoon is definitely a good time to visit when the world turns green bringing requisite contrast to the Blue all around.
If you are at Harihareshwar, please do not miss visiting the Bankot Fort and the Velas beach creating memories for a lifetime. By the way, the ferry was not suspended and I was able to reach back Harihareshwar smoothly 🙂
Wonderful Read…
Thank you. Wish you a very happy Independence Day!
Great packaging of the narrative, pictures and video.
Thanks, Anirban. It means a lot especially coming from you. I have a guest column. If possible do contribute about any special travel experience of yours. Would love to publish it on my blog.
What a gripping narrative..Awesome , Brilliant!!
Thank you so much for your kind words.
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