The Sun Temple at Modhera showcase the rich heritage of India

History of Modhera

The exact date of construction of the Sun temple is unknown although it is estimated based on power of deductions that it was built during 1026-27 during the reign of Bhima I of the Chaulukya dynasty.

During 1024–1025, Mahmud of Ghazni invaded Bhima’s kingdom, and even with a 20 K-strong force the Chaulakya dynasty unsuccessfully tried to stop its advance at Modhera. Historians believe that the Sun Temple might have been built to commemorate this defense.

On a block in the Western wall of Cella, there is an inscription “Vikram Samvat 1083” upside down inscribed in Devnagari script which corresponds to the period of 1026-1027 CE. No other date is found. As the inscription is upside down, it evidences the destruction and reconstruction of the cella.

On the stylistic ground, it is known that the Kunda with its corner shrines was built earlier at the beginning of the 11th century. Soon after Bhima had returned to power. So the temple proper, the miniature, and the niche shrines in the tank were built shortly after 1026 CE. The dancing hall was added much later in the third quarter of the 12th century along with the gateways, the porch of the temple proper, and the doorframes of the temple and the cella during the reign of the Karna

The Journey

The Sun Temple and Rani ka Vav has always been a part of my bucket list and I decided to use the year-end break to take up this journey. This visit was the most memorable and fruitful manner I have spent the last day of any year in my lifetime. I covered not only the Sun temple at Modhera and Rani Ka Vav but also drove down to Sidhpur a lost town but extremely enchanting. The drive was splendid due to the excellent road conditions and my mobile network was available throughout, to ensure GPS does not act crazy. While in this blog I will restrict myself to the Sun Temple at Modhera, I will encourage all of you to take a drip trip to complete this circuit

I started at 830 AM from Ahmedabad after a heavy breakfast. The temperature was pleasant and the voice of Kishore Kumar singing on my Car stereo did not even realize the 2-hour drive. My friend Alice was traveling with me and requested to stop over at Modhera Modheshwari temple before advancing to the Sun temple.

I am always intrigued by the stories of mythology and religion as it makes me think of the spiritual meaning rather than the context described in words. It is believed that a demon called Karnat was creating havoc for Brahmins( priests) and Vaishyas ( agriculturists). The Indian Hindu social order unfortunately has a caste system to distinguish the occupations undertaken by people in a society. This created a hierarchy depending on the nature of occupation and then it disintegrated into the politics of exploitation, and embezzlement, and eventually created a rift in the society.

The Brahmins and the Vaishyas thus sought protection from Paravati Mata ( Goddess Parvati). By listening to the prayers of the devotees, the mother manifested a spontaneous rage that emanated fire from her mouth creating Mata Modheshwari. The Devi adorned red flowers w in her neck and had eighteen arms ( Bhujas). The Goddess slayed the demon and bestowed her blessings upon the Modh community. She promised to always protect those who worship her. This incarnation of the goddess has eighteen arms, each having a weapon; the most prominent being the trident ( Trishul)

Modhera Temple has become the center of faith across Gujarat. The earlier name of Modhera was Moharkpur. It is known as “Satyamandir” in the Tretayuga, “Vedabhavana” in Dwaparay, “Moharakpur” and “Dharmanay” in Kaliug and “Modhera” in medieval times. The area around it was known as Dharmantra, which was established in Satyug. Brahma did penance on this holy land of Modhera.

When Allauddin Khilji attacked Patan, the Modhera Brahmin and Vaishya Samaj again faced a lot of pressure in Modhera. Many of them left for different pastures unable to cope with the pressure. Strangely, Allahuddin Khilji did not destroy the statue of Modheshwari Mata contrary to his style.

Once Alice explained to me the entire history and belief of this land she went inside the temple to pay her obeisance, while I pondered on the architecture of the temple and the various other information available for tourists. I learned the temple was rebuilt in 1966 and there is a tasty meal served to devotees at the Mandir Bhojanalaya( kitchen). Accommodations are also available for devotees on request.

There was hardly any crowd and thus she was back in the car in 15 mins. We resumed our journey to the Modhera sun temple and were at the gate in the next 10 minutes.

The Destination

The remains of the Sun Temples at Modhera dedicated to Sun god are relics of the past when reverence of the natural elements fire, air, earth, water, and sky were worshipped. The ancient philosophy venerating natural elements and their association with humans was considered the prime force and energy of the life cycle. As per the Archeological Survey of India, Modhera Sun Temple was built in 1026-27 CE during the reign of Bhima I of the Chaulukya dynasty.

In October 2022 Honorable Prime Minister Shri Narendrabhai Modi Inaugurated Solar powered 3-D Projection Mapping Show and Heritage Lighting at the Temple. It’s an experience not to be missed at any cost. The entire village around the area runs on Solar power which is a record of itself and shows how India is progressing way ahead of the West in creating the infrastructure and power needed for the future.

The temple, built in Maru-gurjara architectural style, consists of the main temple shrine Garbhagriha, a hall Gadhamandapa, an outer hall or assembly hall (Sabhamandapa or Rangamandapa), and a sacred pool Kunda which is now called Ramakunda.

The Sabhamandapa does not form part of the main body, but it is a distinct structure placed a little away in front of the main temple shrine. The main temple shrine and the Sabhamandapa are built on a paved platform and the kunda lies in their front. This east-facing temple is built of bright yellow sandstone.

As you enter the historical complex, you first come across the magnificent kund known as the Ramakund, built in rectangular shape containing 108 shrines to various gods and demi-gods. Check out the three main shrines positioned on the three sides of the kund, dedicated to Ganesh and Vishnu and an image of Lord Shiva dancing the ‘tandav

Walk up the steps to the ‘Sabha Mandap’ or the assembly and convene with sculpted renderings of twelve ‘Adityas’ (another name for the sun god). The twelve representations carved on the pillars represent the sun according to the twelve months.

After witnessing the ‘Sabha Mandap’ a visit to the Garbhagruha will feel like a spiritual experience. The statue of the sun god no longer exists and the Suryavanshi Solanki have been scattered into the dust of history for a thousand years. but still, on the day of the Equinox, linear rays of the sun illuminate the inner core of life and light.

The mesmerizing carving across the Ramakund and the temple premises left me mesmerized by the skills of the artisans of that time. Being an ardent patriot and a history buff I keep wondering why such pieces of history are not taught in our school curriculum. Our entire is diverse and each nook and corner has a story of our great civilization. I keep my travel articles to do my bit by telling my followers to travel to my country and spend on our economy. Be vocal for locals and try to spend the people who are part of the ecosystem where you travel.

I ended my trip by visiting the newly built museum inside the premises. The collection of art and artifacts found across the region has been carefully displayed. My salute to ASI for taking up such ardent tasks with minimum budgets but the sheer passion of its Archaeologists.

Leave your comments or write to journey@metrotter.com for further information.