Alibag is the nearest beach town from Mumbai which draws thousands of visitors to its shore. It is accessible both by road and water transport from the city of Mumbai. Self driving has its own thrill but takes 4-5 hours depending road condition. This part of the country gets enormous monsoon showers and thus are susceptible to wear and tear.On the other hand, Water transport is the quickest connecting Mumbai to Mandwa in 30 minutes.
The newly introduced RO-RO( Roll on- Roll off) boats are similar in size as Cruise liners with a lower and sub lower deck to ferry vehicles. This has been a great blessing for tourists who prefer to travel with their own vehicle on a holiday. While, there are normal passenger ferry and speedboat services between the two ports, it did not gain much popularity due to logistical challenges. Not many tourists like to travel in public transport from Mandwa to Alibaug or afford an expensive private transport. Therefore the RO-RO boats are tailor made for one and all.
I have been a great believer that India needs to seriously develop its water transport. Automobiles sales will continue to show upward growth trajectory with the economic prosperity. With over billion people this is best solution to decongest our city roads.
As the restrictions of the pandemic eased I killed 2 birds with one stone. I planned a weekend trip to the nearest beach town and also got to experience the services of Water transport. I am presenting the itinerary I chalked out for the next 2 days.
Plan for Day 1:
- Mumbai to Alibaug through M2M Ferry
- Mandwa Ferry Terminal to Mandwa beach
- Mandwa beach to Kihim beach
- Kihim beach to Varsoli beach
- Varsoli beach to Hotel
- Hotel to Alibaug beach and Kolaba Fort
- Return back to the hotel and spend the evening in Leisure
I booked our online ferry tickets a week in advance. The entire booking process was quite simple and user friendly. Post payment a Booking ID was generated which I saved on my mobile phone. This ID is very important, to board the Ferry thus please keep it safe. As directed in the Terms & Condition I reached the Princess Dock ( Mazgaon, Mumbai) 30 minutes ahead of scheduled departure.
At the entrance gate all our body temperature were checked as per the Covid protocol. Thereafter, on displaying our Booking ID, we were issued Paper tickets and directed to follow behind one of the queue for boarding. The crew were extremely efficient and managed the entire boarding with lot of care and attention. The entire process took less than 10 minutes.
I would like you to note that the faster you reach the Dock the faster you will disembark at Mandwa jetty. The disembarkment happens from the opposite side of the boarding. Thus, there is a great incentive for being punctual!
After Parking my vehicle I double checked if the hand gear is set right. Once satisfied, I looked around to comprehend the next step. I observed everyone walking up to the upper deck and thus followed suit. As I climbed up to the upper deck I found open air seatings and being punctual allowed us to pick the seats of our choice. As I waited for the ferry to sail I looked around to get a sense of the facilities available. I could locate the AC lounge behind me but I preferred to stay put in the open. The motivation of absorbing Vitamin D after 6 months (Lockdown) outweighed any other option.
The ride to Mandwa lasted for 30 minutes and was thoroughly enjoyable. I still reminisce the view of the Mumbai skyline in the morning sun. As the skyline started to disappear we passed through large ships anchored in the ocean and the sun kept playing hide and seek through the clouds. The glittering of the sun rays in the water and the cool morning breeze was therapeutic to the mind and the heart.
During the lockdown I had these dreams of walking barefoot on the soft sand as cool breeze brush through my hairs. As I was driving out of the Terminal ramp I caught a glimpse of the Mandwa beach and knew that my wishes are coming true. We get to understand the meaning of such simple pleasures of life only when we cannot experience it, isn’t it?
Of course I pulled over played at the beach with my daughter and felt alive and free spirited after a long time. Please keep in mind that the roads are single lane at Mandwa. Thus if you decide to pull over please park your vehicle properly. I am sure you will not want to be the reason for a traffic snarl.
We spent about 20 minutes at Mandwa beach before resuming our journey. With high spirits we decided to head to Kihim beach which is about 20 minutes drive from Mandwa. Albeit a bit rocky, the beach has enough stretches of sand to indulge both in water sports or play with friends and family. I think it was a prudent decision to visit in the morning as we found the beach all for ourselves. Secondly, the temperatures was pleasant and lastly it was enroute to the hotel. The check in was at 3 PM and it was the best option to spend our time effectively.
The water on the beaches of Alibaug recedes with the low tide turning the entire beach into a shallow pool. This even makes it safe for children to play in the water, though Parental caution is recommended. My favourite memory at Kihim was seeing grown ups acting like child as they fall of Banana boats. I couldn’t stop laughing as the same scenes kept unfurling time and again in spite of the actors changing. As more and more tourists started tuning in the Camel and Horses came ouf of their riding to offer a ride. However, I observed the ATV’s are the ones which is on top demand.
After playing for 45 mins I started to feel dehydrated. To comfort my parched throat, I headed to the first tender coconut stall and gulped down the water from a large coconut. Will you not second me that this is the best beverage for our tropical climate. I could see a lot of shacks serving different cuisines and thus it might not be a bad idea to have breakfast here.
It was 1145 AM when I started from Kihim. The sun was almost on its midpoint and I was in two mind whether to head to the hotel or to Varsoli beach. Due to popular demand, we decided to visit Varsoli which is the most popular beach in Alibaug. It took us about 30 mins to reach here. We found the beach over crowded on arrival.Given the pandemic and our need to maintain social distance we found a solitary patch and played in the water for almost two hours. The water sports options were better compared to Kihim and I observed that bargaining is an acceptable norm. I would strongly urge my readers get Wet here and enjoy to your heart’s content, if you land up here.
Where to stay in Alibaug?
- Depending on your affinity of a location and budget you will get hosts of hotels, Homestay and Bungalows . Just Google
- I chose the Radisson Blu Resort and Spa as this property is known for its warm hospitality. During the pandemic we did not want to take any chance with hygiene and we trusted the brand to take care of our well being
- Additionally, I love their ground floor rooms as it has the water body in front of the courtyard. Perfect to dip the feet and enjoy a drink or two. Now, who will want to miss it?
We checked in at Radisson around 02:00 PM. On entering our room I called the Room service and ordered lunch. By the time we freshened up the lunch arrived bringing smiles to our faces. I am not a leisure traveller and prefer to cover many locations in a single trip. That is exhaustive so I also make sure that I catch up on sleep at every possible opportunity. Hence after the wonderful lunch I hit the bed setting the alarm for 04 PM. In few minutes, I was engulfed in deep slumber. As the alarm woke me up, I was disappointed that an hour has passed in a whisker. My body yearned for more sleep but, the call of Kolaba fort was too strong to resist. Thus I sprang out of the bed and made myself a strong tea and was ready to get me back in the groove
The drive to Alibaug beach was about 15 minutes. Parking was available in a designated parking ground by paying a gratuity. During rush hour, I am sure getting a parking will require patience as the ground was small. The Kolaba fort is accessible from the Alibaug beach either by feet or horse ride during low tides and by hailing a boat during high tides. The current cost is Rs 150/- per person. Tickets are available on the beach from a makeshift counter which is easy to locate. Please keep in mind that you will have to climb on to the boat from the water thus it is advisable to wear floaters or similar footwears
The entrance to the fort is a stone throw away from the alighting point of the boat. The ticket counter was shut closed and the only option was to scan the QR code and purchase the entry tickets . The mobile signal at this point was quite weak and thus the entire process took a bit of time. I would request my readers to be patient as you are in a holiday and there is nothing much you can do to expedite a poor signal.
- Children below 12 years of age gets a free access
- Adult tickets are priced at Rs 20/-
I was bit skeptical that I would not be able to complete the tour before the sun sets. Thus, I proactively sought suggestion from the ticket checker about the best route to explore the fort. He advised me to take a left turn and keep walking beside the boundary wall. I am really grateful for his suggestion as the mesmerising view of the sea can best be viewed in this manner. In few stretches the long grasses have completely captured the land. I have to agree walking through the grasses was making me nervous, anticipating a snake or a lizard bite. But the stunning views kept me going. To overcome my fear, I picked a long stick and made a lot of noise by hitting it to the ground. This was the only practical solution I could think off as I walked to keep the lizards at bay.
At about half point I found a viewpoint where I was able to capture some stunning pictures of the sea. From this point I discontinued walking beside the boundary wall coz the grass and shrubs became thicker. I did not see any point of taking unwanted risk while on a holiday. Instead, I took the pathway towards the entry point. Mid way I reached a very old temple compound. It lacked any pomp but I immediately felt a connection and decided to pay my reverence. There were nobody inside the compound, except for the sparrows who were playing gleefully. I found a seat in one corner and closed my eyes to try and imagine its glorious past. I am keeping my vivid imaginations of glorious past with me
The fort is not maintained but there lies its charm. The unkept bushes does not depict the history of bygone era. But when nature captures a man made structure it does it gracefully and it still looks good to the eyes. The sun was ready to set and I had pick up pace to bid Adieu to this magnificent Fort. It was my plan to capture the sunset with the Fort in the background. To execute that plan I had to reach Alibaug beach before the sun sets. I hopped on to the first available boat reached the beach just in time to capture the gorgeous Sunset. A lot of tourists stays back at the Fort and enjoy the sunset from there. You can decide basis your preference.
I sat back at the beach watching the sun vanishing behind the silhouette with a promise to be back tomorrow. Slowly as the darkness descended the magical red hues of the twilight began disappearing. As the magic of light vanished I decided to retire back to the hotel to recuperate for the next day. If you are staying in Radisson do not miss the flavours of “Kokum & Spice” a fine dining restaurant popular for its coastal cuisines
Guiding lights – Water transport
- M2M runs 3 ferries to Mandwa and back, except for Tuesday which is a No Sail day. However, please refer the website for updated schedule
- Infant below 3 years travels free. Other passenger ticket currently costs Rs 300/- per head
- Vehicle transportation starts at Rs 800/-. The actual price is depended on Make and model of the vehicle
- Your pet/s can travel too. What an opportunity to have the entire family on a holiday, isn’t it? Their ticket need to be purchased too
- Please ensure that your Car is parked with Handbrake on as you are in a moving vessel.
- Food and beverages are available for purchase and if you want your spirits fly, popular liquor brands were available too.
- Toilets are present inside the AC lounge
Plan for Day 2
- Hotel to Aksi beach
- Aksi beach to Nagaon beach
- Nagaon beach to Hotel for lunch
- Hotel to Mandwa jetty to embark the ferry back to Mumbai
The next morning I woke up late with the sound of weird noises in my stomach. It was a signal to rush to the restaurant for the breakfast. Being a middle-class Indian I ensured that I tasted all the spreads in the buffet, till I could eat no more. With a discomforting stomach I decided stroll around the property to settle the food. The property was genuinely beautiful but the humidity made me look for other alternatives. At this point I came across the air conditioned Library. As I entered my eyes got fixed on a coffee table book about the “Grand Trunk Road” . I got so engrossed with the content and its pictures that I ended up finishing the entire book. The mental journey across the East to West of our country was good enough to assuage the discomfort of overeating and make me ready for the upcoming day.
The drive to Aksi Beach through the meandering highway was extremely enjoyable. At that moment I did not know that I am in for more pleasant surprise. I was driving with the assistance of the GPS. In the last mile it navigated me through a small lane beside large bungalows. Out of nowhere, the great expanse of the Aksi beach appeared in front of me and my heart leapt in joy of discovering this spot. As I stepped got out of my vehicle I spotted a few local children swimming on the beach and I immediately wanted to join them. Reluctantly, I resisted the temptation due to strong protest by my fellow travellers.
In the hindsight, it was a smart move as driving around in wet clothes, in a AC vehicle, for a few hours might have been disastrous. With swimming overruled I decided I sauntered around which lead me to a few fishermen were enjoying their drink under a Tamarisk tree. I was not perturbed at this as they were just having a good time. But in case you feel uncomfortable do search Aksi beach parking on your GPS which will lead you to the main beach entrance
As I was closing in to Nagaon beach I could smell an air of festivity. All the eateries were buzzing with people. When I walked in to the beach I could not believe the sight in front.! Actually, I pinched myself to check if I was dreaming. Being a Sunday thousands of tourists have come out of their home captivity for a beach day. I couldn’t gather enough courage to mingle out in the sea of humanity and thus stationed myself under the shade of a tree. I watched with amazement the funny poses, the acrobats on water and the somersaults on sand. These memories will forever remain in my mind. Very soon the sun became unbearable and I was forced to get into the comfort of our vehicle and drive back to our hotel for lunch.
We walked in to “Aparanta” restaurant in Radisson Blu Resorts and Spa. We had a long long lunch with leisure. This allowed us to have a great conversation among us too.There is something in the air and water at Alibaug which enhanced our metabolic rate. Keeping this in mind, I thought it be judicious to parcel some food. To my amusement, this is the first time I was unanimously supported. Notwithstanding, an argument followed to decide the item! Seeing no end of this squabble, I autocratically ordered Chicken Sandwich as a take away, for the last leg of our journey.
Our return was booked for the 6 PM ferry. Being an obedient patron I reached the Pier at 05:30 PM. As I reached the upper deck the beautiful twilight came alive mesmerising all of us. The pleasant breeze of the sea lapped across my face, refreshing me instantly. I closed my eyes for a silent prayer. As anticipated, 10 minutes in the journey all of us felt hunger pangs and it was God’s signal to attack the the sandwiches! As we enjoyed our food the boat cruised at top speed and the beautiful glittering city of Mumbai drew closer and closer.
Key milestones
- Mandwa ferry Terminal to Kihim beach- 13 Kms- 25 mins
- Kihim beach to Varsoli beach- 12 Kms ; Driving time- 30 mins
- Varsoli beach to Radisson Blu Resorts and Spa- 5 Kms- 15 mins
- Radisson Blu Resorts & Spa to Akshi Beach- 9 Kms- 25 mins
- Akshi beach to Nagaon beach- 5 Kms- 20 mins
- Nagaon beach to Radisson Blu Resorts and Spa- 11 Kms- 30 mins
- Radisson Blu Resorts and Spa to Mandwa Ferry- 20 Kms- 40 mins