Gwalior – The City of Ragas conquered in 12 hours !

The Journey to Gwalior

My journey to Gwalior was completely unplanned and I reached there as the winds of destiny drifted me to this magnificent town. I guess I will have to draw some context for my readers to relate. During 2022 I was staying in New Delhi working with a start-up and thoroughly enjoying every minute of trying to build an enterprise. Every day brought new challenges and opportunities and it was fun to work 360 degrees. Unfortunately, this thrilling drive was cut short due to a personal exigency and I had to take the decision of returning back to Mumbai where my family was stationed.

The crisis came so abruptly that I flew down to Mumbai keeping my lock, stock, and barrel in New Delhi. After a few days, I realized that I had to be in Mumbai and thus decided to go out on a long drive that will provide me ample opportunity to introspect, strategize and plan for the new unknown and uncertain roads of my life ahead. Thus, one fine day I took out my car and started driving from Mumbai to Delhi through the Gujarat route.

The plan was to pack up all my belongings from Delhi, bid goodbye to a few people that mattered, and drive back to Mumbai through the Central Indian route. However, the drive of 2 days to reach Delhi allowed me to calm down my nerves and found clarity on the way forward. As I touched upon the smoggy Indian capital the worrying clouds on my mind had vanished and I felt rejuvenated and eager to attack the new challenges ahead of me.

When I was packing all my stuff and painstakingly putting it in my vehicle the thought of visiting a few on my bucket list crossed my mind. I contemplated for almost half a day and decided a few days would not change anything. In fact, my heart resonated that it is just the right potion, I needed to face the grueling few months ahead of me. Thus I landed up at Gwalior, followed by Jhansi, and then to the magical Orchha.

I am leaving behind a trailer of this journey and its tale from my YouTube channel. I hope you like the video and if so please Like and Subscribe

I reached the Main entrance of the Gwalior Fort late in the afternoon. This gate was used by soldiers and commoners mostly on horseback and elephants to reach the fort. The elevation was staggering too and I was in no mood for trekking after driving for 5 hrs non-stop. After checking with the locals I learned about a motorable road that goes to the hill.

At that point, a stranger approached me and offered to assist in navigating to the top. He also offered to double up as a guide for a paltry fee of ₹150/-. I politely declined as my car had hardly any space for a cat leave alone a human. My entire 1BHK was inside the car sitting across all the 6 seats that were on offer.

Being a curious soul I started probing a bit with the ulterior motive of using it as a Travel tip in my blog. Alas, I found it to be a scam to take a free ride up the mountain and also get paid for doing absolutely nothing. The navigation is easy and thus please do not fall into this trap. It took me about 20 minutes to reach the Parking spot at Gwalior Place.

Gwalior Fort and Palaces

Entry Fees: ₹ 20/- for Indians and ₹400/- for foreigners

The fortress of Gwalior stands 100 meters on a high sandstone rock measuring nearly 2.5 km in length. It is considered to be one of the most formidable fortresses in Northern India and was dubbed “The Jewel among the Castles of India” by the Mughal emperor Babur

The ancient structure on this fort is the Sun temple erected by Matricheta in the 15th regnal year of the Huna conqueror Mihrkuala– 6th century. Later in the 8th century, the Gurjara Pratihara dynasty came into prominence, followed by the Kachhapaghatas who captured this fort in the 10th century. A sculpture at the fort’s summit represents the number ‘zero’, the second earliest reference to the number in history.

In the 13th century, Qutub -ud-in Aibek captured this fort and appointed Illtutmish as Amir of this fort. Later Tomar Rajputs held the fort in 1398. in 1523, Ibrahim Lodi conquered it by defeating Tomar ruler Vikramaditya. Although soon enough, after the first battle of Panipat( 1526) this fort fell in the hand of the Mughals.

Later on, it came under the possession of Marathas, Rana of Gohad, and finally under the British in the year 1780. After the treaty of Salbai, the fort changed hands to the Scindia dynasty. In 1858 Sir Hugh Rose occupied this fort and in 1886 it was finally restored to Scindia Marathas. After Indian independence, Gwalior was included in central India in the year 1948

This architectural masterpiece has a unique history as it was built in two parts, in two different historical periods. It has come under the control of several dynasties in its time. There are 25 temples and water reservoirs within the fort complex.

The palaces built on the fort are Karan Mahal, Man Mandir, Gujari Mahal, Vikram Mahal, Shri Mandir or Jahangir Mahal, and Shahjahan Mahal. Temples are also raised over the fortress which includes the sun temple belonging to the 6th century, Chaturbhuj temple, and Sas-bahu Mandir.

Man Singh Palace

This magnificent palace is a true testimony of Hindu architecture. It was built by Tomar king Man Singh Tomar in 1508. There are a total of 4 stories in this Palace out of which 2 stories are built underground. The 3rd story consists of two large courtyards and various rooms that are supported by decorated pillars and brackets.

The Palace is beautifully decorated with paintings, and glazed tiles of various colors, and different figures of human beings, plants, and animals can be visible. It is built on the outer wall of the fort, raised above the cliff at about 300 feet. During the Mughal period, this Palace was used as a State prison.

The courtyard is the most attractive space inside the Mahal. The generous use of colors makes it awe-inspiring and was a perfect setting for enjoying a gala evening with dance and enjoyment during the rulers’ time. The other notable piece of architecture was the use of a ventilation system present underground to bring in fresh air and light to the chambers. I have tried to show it in the video of Gwalior that I have updated in this blog. The total recommended duration would be 45 minutes. The Palace is open from 8 AM to 6 PM

Karan Mahal

This Palace was built by the 2nd King of the Tomar dynasty, Kirti Singh, who was incidentally also called Karn Singh. The most fascinating part of the temple is the view of the city of Gwalior and the panoramic view of the entire Fort area

The palace is the best specimen of Hindu architecture. It has a complete arrangement of women’s baths named Hamam on the ground floor of the palace.

Vikram Mahal

Vikram Mahal was constructed by Raja Mansighs’s son and heir Vikramaditya (1516-1523). The Palace has a simple architecture with a Baradari in the middle with room on each side. A Baradari is a pillared structure that allows the free flow of air. There are stairs to the upper stories. The total length of the place is about 65 meters

Jehangir and Shah Jahan Palace

The Palaces known as Jehangir Mahal and Shahjehan Mahal were constructed in the Mughal period during the time of Jehangir (1605-1627A.D.) and Shahjehan (1627-1658A.D.). 

Both palaces are located on the same campus, having a large courtyard. These palaces are the best specimen of Mughal Architectural style, having arched doors, carving, and Jali decoration. One entrance to campus opens to the Jauhar Kund and the other to the Vikram Mahal.

Archaeological Museum

Entry fees: ₹20/-

The present museum building was a hospital during the British period. Towards its east, there is a Jail building meant for contemporary prisoners. The museum has four main galleries in which the antiquities from 1st BC to 18th Century AD are exhibited. These artifacts have been recovered from Gwalior and its nearby places like-Amrol, Khairat, Ater, Naresar, Bateshwar, Mitaoli, Padhawali, Sihoinia, Terahi and Surwaya.

When I arrived at the gate of the restaurant I realized I had spent close to 3 hours. In the excitement of exploring I didn’t realize that I skipped my lunch, and this realization made my stomach start giving signals. However, the treasure trove inside the Museum created a dilemma in my mind about whether to rush or spend good enough time exploring. Eventually, I took the middle path because it might be the only time I visit here and thus it made no sense to return back with a regretful soul.

Effectively after 30 minutes, I was out of the museum with a smile on my face in spite of the hunger pangs. Earlier in the day when I parked my vehicle I recollected glancing upon a display board of Lake View Cafe and it being the only restaurant inside I walked straight to it. The service and the food were good, and the waiter provided new insights about the Palace.

I met Chandrachud in the restaurant, he was in his 50s and had a stubble of 3-4 days, and was wearing a rimless spectacle. He was engrossed in a local daily and seemed to enjoy his cup of Black coffee. I went and sat at the table next to his. When I ordered a black coffee he raised his eyes and looked at me with a mutual appreciation of a coffee lover. I reciprocated with a nod and a friendly smile.

Not many in India prefer black coffee although the coffee culture is definitely picking steam across the urban hubs courtesy of the large retail coffee stores that have sprawled across the country. I have observed most youngsters prefer cold coffee with lots of accompaniment and I am sure it tastes wonderful. Personally have never liked it much as I can never compromise on the smell and taste of caffeine being overpowered by milk and cream.

It was an intentional move to sit beside him and after a few passing remarks, we started conversing. He was very impressed with my desire to drive solo, that too with a car full of luggage! He mentioned his dream of traveling across the country in his Jeep which is yet to be fulfilled due to the daily grinds of family responsibilities. Interestingly, he is writing a novel and visits the cafe every day to observe Tourists and eavesdrop on their conversation! I joked that it’s priceless free research and we both laughed heartily.

I have been a salesperson all my life and this slight opportunity allowed me to show him my blog. He was excited but said he is not well-versed in English. Thus I advised him to use the Google translator.

I was touched when he walked me up to the car to bid goodbye. He suggested that the remaining attractions have ample free parking and thus I should drive down instead of walking as it would save time and energy for me. We shook hands and surprisingly Chandrachud hugged me and said he liked me and would call me when he finally take on his voyage.

I started driving before exchanging our numbers with a strange feeling that how we humans sometimes bond with a stranger without any expectations, agenda, or promise. That’s the beauty of travel and life!

“We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls.” – Anais Nin

Gurdwara Data Bandi Chhor Sahib

It was a 5-minute drive from the Parking spot to the entrance of the Gurdwara. The Gurdwara is open 24 hours a day. 15 minutes is the recommended duration unless someone wants to sit and enjoy the peace and tranquility around and pray.

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhor is the memorial of the 6th Sikh Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji who was declared as the 6th Sikh Guru by Baba Budha Ji after the demise of Guru Arjan Dev Ji. He started raising the Sant army to fight against cruelty and built the Fort of Lohgarh which is now known as the Gurudwara Shri Lohgarh Sahib. The Guru was known to serve quick and cheap justice that somehow brought him to the notice of Jahangir. Jahangir met Guru Har Gobind Singh Ji many times in his court and even went hunting with him. It is said that the Guru even saved the emperor’s life by killing a tiger and the Gurudwara there is known as the Gurudwara Shri Sher Shikar Sahib.

There are two narrations about Guru Har Gobind Singh Ji being kept in captivity by Jahangir. I do not know which one is true as I found the internet flooded with information on both versions of the story. The first version states that Jahangir was very sick and the doctors suggested that the only possible cure is the blessings of some holy man. The emperor requested Guru Har Gobind to stay in the Palace at Gwalior. During his stay, Guruji found 52 Rajput rulers were prisoners in the Palace and were living in miserable conditions.

The health of Jahangir continued to worsen and another saint suggested to Jehangir’s wife that the holy man is not to be trapped in the Palace. On hearing this Jahangir ordered the release of the Guru who placed the condition that he will leave only if the Rajputs are released along with him. Jahangir agreed to release only those who would be able to hold the Guru’s cloth till the next morning knowing that the Rajputs would never go against their ethics but surprisingly next day he found all of them holding the Guru and thus released them. This is how the name of Gurudwara data Bandi Chhor was formed.

The other version was that Jahangir detained Guru Hargobind Sahib for 2 years on allegations of conspiring and using militant activities against the State. The rest of the event remains the same. In memory of Guru Hargobind Singh, Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhod was built in 1970. It is a famous pilgrim center for Sikhs across the country.

Saas Bahu temple

My next destination took me about 7 minutes from the Gurdwara. There were patches of road that were not in good condition but definitely motorable. There are no parking bays present and thus tourists can park on the side of the road as there are ample spaces around. The recommended duration would be 30 minutes

The Saas-Bahu temple, built in the ninth century, attracts both visitors and believers. This temple was previously known as the Sahastrabahu Temple, after Lord Vishnu, who possesses numerous hands. It became known as Saas Bahu Temple as a result of increasing mispronunciation throughout time. Saas Bahu Temple does not represent Saas (mother-in-law) and bahu (daughter-in-law) but is a short version of Sahastra Bahu, another name for Lord Vishnu.

This temple was built during King Mahipala of the Kacchapaghata Dynasty, who asked the Lord of the Universe for a happy and flourishing kingdom. These two temples are close to one other and beautifully ornamented with carvings and sculptures.

Teli Ka Mandir

This temple, located in the Gwalior Fort, dates back to the 9th century and is the tallest skyscraper in Gwalior (100 ft.).Before the British took over the Gwalior Fort, this shrine was used to refine oil.

This temple is well-known for its distinctive construction since the temple has a Dravidian appearance, yet the sculptures are distinctively North Indian.

Unfortunately, I was not aware of this temple and had to miss it. Hopefully, if I visit Gwalior next this would be my go-to place. In case any of you reading the blog is planning to visit Gwalior Fort, do add it to your itinerary

Gopachal Parvat

The last and yet the most fascinating stopover happened accidentally. Frankly, I was not aware of this magical place and it lacks notable information in most travel blogs. As I was driving down the fort I came across these huge statues of Tirthankars standing blessing the passers-by. Quite intrigued I stopped and started exploring completely awe-struck by its size and presence.

Gopachal Parvat, located in the Gwalior Fort, is an excellent spot to see some ancient Jain imagery. The Tirthankaras may be observed meditating in seated or standing postures, making Gopachal Parvat one of Gwalior’s numerous Jain sites. Gopachal Parvat is a significant and cherished place, particularly among Jain devotees.

The rock-cut Jain structures are dated from the seventh and fifteenth centuries. The monuments are dedicated to the Jain Tirthankaras Adinatha, Mahavir, Neminatha, and Rishanabhanatha, whose idols may be seen meditating. They are among the 100 monuments scattered across the city.

The recommended duration is 15 minutes. Actually, I spent a bit more as I knew this was my last stop for the day and the sun was setting in the distance providing a great to shoot some pictures. As the night descended I decided to call it a day and head towards my hotel for an early night.

The next day was going to be exciting too as I planned to cover the remaining part of Gwalior before heading to Jhansi the land of Rani Lakshmibai

Tansen Ka Maqbara

The next morning I woke up at 6 Am without an alarm. Within 20 minutes after a shot of black coffee I was out in the road in front of my hotel. The day was bright and beautiful which resulted in a change of heart. I decided to enjoy the drive from the back seat instead of driving myself. I hailed an auto and after a customary bargaining to arrive at the best rate I was on my way to Tansen Ka Maqbara.

Tansen was one of India’s best musicians and an excellent vocalist in Akbar’s courts during the medieval period. He was also one of the Mughal court’s nine pearls. Tansen’s music was said to have the power to generate magic, cause rain, and even captivate animals. Mohammad Ghaus, who taught him Hindustani classical music, was his teacher.

Tansen’s mausoleum, also known as the Tansen Memorial, is an obvious pick among the various Gwalior tourist attractions. Tansen was a Gwalior Gharana pioneer in Hindustani Classical music during the reign of the Mughals. He supported the Dhrupad style and the Gwalior Gharana style of music. He was buried beside his teacher, and the burial place is a work of art in its own right.

The main building is on the tomb of Mohammed Ghaus, while Tansen’s tomb lay without much fanfare. Personally, I thought much more could have been done for tourist attractions. It is believed that Tansen used to chew Tamarind leaves to sharpen his voice and thus a Tamarind tree is planted beside his tomb. An annual music festival is held nationally in November and December in the Tansen Memorial Complex.

Getting an auto back to the hotel was equally easy and I was back to the hotel by 730 AM and went straight for breakfast. Needless to say, after breakfast, I enjoyed my black coffee that was made of instant coffee, but I did not care as long as I got my dose of caffeine.

Jai Vilas Palace and Museum

By 09 AM I was on the road once again, driving towards the final destination of Gwalior, before I head for the historical city of Jhansi. It was a 30-minute drive to the Jai Vilas Palace. Google Maps took me to the main gate through which visitors are not allowed, thus had to drive beside the boundary wall, and with a little help from locals I reached the parking spot.

This is one of Madhya Pradesh’s most notable museums, dedicated to Jivaji Rao Scindia. This museum dates back to 1964 and occupies around 35 rooms at Jai Villas Palace. The museum is well-known for its manuscripts, sculptures, coins, paintings, and weapons collection. It is the best place to learn about Gwalior’s history, particularly the Scindia dynasty. You will feel proud when you see the world’s largest chandelier on display. The palace has Indian and British design elements, and it spans a huge area.

Galleries and Rooms

Ground Floor: Lineage Gallery, Textile Gallery, Sardar Gallery, Silver Baggi Gallery, Carriage Gallery, Uniform Gallery, Roval Kitchen.

First Floor: HH Shrimant Madhavrao Scindia Gallery, Reception Hall, Neo-classical Room, Breakfast Room, Malabar Room, Study Room, The Napoleon Table Room, Nursery, Maharani Chinku Raje’s Suite, Arms and Armour, Maharaja’s Bedroom, Pooja Room, Crystal Furniture Room, Maharani Gajra Raje’s Drawing Room, Persian Carpet, East Asian rooms

Darbar Hall Premises: Crystal Fountain and Carriage Courtyard, Taat-Paat Bhojan Hall, Banquet Hall, Billiards Room, Maharaja Madhav Rao Scindia I: The Father of Modern Gwalior, The Maharanis of Gwalior, Darbar Hall, State Room, and Indian Darbar.

To cover the Palace in leisure will take at least half a day. Personally, I was not happy as I had to rush through many places and could not do justice. However, I was satisfied that I was able to cover the best of Gwalior in less than 12 hours. A bucket list completed and a smile on my face was my achievement at the end of the day. So over to Jhansi now, keep tuned