Monsoon drive across Maharashtra

The Monsoon appeals to a wider range of populations for multiple reasons. For nature lovers, the rains are a perfect recipe to cleanse us from the evils of pollution and brings new life to Mother Earth. In a country like India, Monsoon brings in 70% of the annual rainfall and thus has enormous economic consideration. Agriculture constitutes about 15% of India’s GDP and engages about 1.3 billion people.

For some of us, the Ginger Chai (Tea) with freshly fried Pakodas is a blissful experience, while for romantics the joy of dancing and drenching in the first showers are reinvigorating. Similarly, for me, the joy of driving in the rain while listening to the pitter-patter on the rooftop holds a special place. There is also the concomitant risk of slippery roads and landslides that gets overlooked due to the soothing effect of petrichor in the air.

The Western Ghats have always intrigued me due to their exclusive flora and fauna. Especially its transformation to a Green Angel during monsoon, makes me yearn for it. I have been living in Mumbai since 2016 and thinking about taking a trip during this time. In July 2021, the tourism industry was slowly trying to get back to its feet after the pandemic related restrictions.

A lot of well-wishers warned me given the scare of the virus, but it was an opportunity that I was not willing to let go of. I know in my heart that this is an opportunity of a lifetime to experience nature in its true form without human intervention. This just provided the opportunity that I was seeking and I decided to drive on one morning.

Day 1: Mumbai to Panchgani

I started at 7 AM from Mumbai on a relatively clear day on 13th July 2021; slightly crestfallen that the rain clouds were not visible. However, as I was crossing Lonavala the skies opened up and it continued throughout the trip. This trip had its share of thrill and fun, but I would like to add a disclaimer for my readers. Monsoon is not the time for sightseeing and thus it is better to tone the expectations accordingly.

The raindrops flowing upwards on the windshield fascinates me the most while driving in the rain. The greenery of the Western Ghats is not only soothing to the eyes but also to the heart. As I manoeuvred the twist and turn of the Ghat road I was able to draw an analogy of our lives to that of the journey on a highway. Sometimes we pass through wonderful pastures driving across smooth roads and on the next turn the road can be patchy or a speed breaker brings us to a halt. Similarly in life, there are good and bad days and we relish the good due to the challenges faced.

By 1 Pm I reached my tent at Panchgani. The view from the Swiss De Exotica( currently closed) was surreal with the Tabletop mountain in front and a large Lake at the bottom of the mountain. For the remaining part of the day, I just sat back and enjoyed the day and allowed my body to recuperate from the evils of being locked ( Pandemic lockdown) at home within pigeon holes in Mumbai.

Slowly the day turned to night while I kept myself engrossed in the famous novel “Hundred Years of Solitude” by Gabriel Garcia Marquez. I didn’t realise when I was abducted by Slumber and taken on a long drive amidst series of hills and an ocean. It was a therapeutic experience and when I woke up I was fresh and energetic to face a new day.

Day 2: Mahabaleshwar Pratapgad Fort

The downpour continued into the next day. After a lazy breakfast, I set off for one of the iconic Fort of Shivaji. The Legends of Shivaji actually took wings due to an incident on the foothills of this fort. I have seen pictures of this fort in my school history books and the thought landing my feet here sent goosebumps down my skin.

On the way to the Fort, I did cover some of the tourists spots which I have mentioned for my readers. These locations were on the way to the Fort and thus one can build the itinerary accordingly.

1. Sydney Point- It was closed, as the pandemic restrictions were still on. Thus I fooled around a bit and enjoyed the weather with a piping hot coffee. Located about 2 kms from Panchgani Bus Stand, at a point easily accessible from all sides. It was named after Sir Sidney Beckwarth, Commander in Chief, who succeeded Sir John Malcolm as Bombay’s Governor in 1830. Sydney Point is famous for providing charming views of the Krishna Valley, Dhom Dam, Kamalgad Fort and the city of Wai. The hillock also offers beautiful view of the hill ranges of Pandavgad and Mandhardeo. It is best to visit Sydney Point during sunrise and sunset.
2. Parsi Point: This picturesque viewpoint offers a truly breathtaking panoramic view of the clear waters of Dhom Dam and the charm of Krishna Valley. Surrounded by lofty, green mountains on all sides, this spot is indeed a sight to remember forever. The very name ‘Parsi Point’ is inspired by the significance of the place to the early Parsi community. During Monsoon it is a rarity to get a gimpse of the magnificent view because it will be covered in cloud cover.
3. Devrai Art Village: Located at a distance of 1 Km from Parsi Point, Devrai Art Village is a no-profit programme for celebrating creativity and connecting with nature. The art and paintings showcased are made by talented Advivasi artists and craftsmen from Chhattisgarh and Gadchiroli. Devrai Art Village can be visited from 9 AM to 8 PM, throughout the week. 
4. Bhilar Water Point The waterfall is visible from the Panchgani – Mahabaleshwar road and there cannot be a better time than the monsoon to experience its full splendor. The fall is approximately 350 feet and is frequented by thrill seekers and adventurers who trek to the remote mountains to reach the foothill of the fall. There are many local tourist companies that facilitates the trek from Stone Shelters Resort.
5. Venna Lake:  This lake is one of the tourist attractions of Mahabaleshwar. It was constructed by Shri Appasaheb Maharaj, who was Raja (King) of Satara in 1842. The lake is surrounded by lot of trees. Tourists come here to enjoy a boat ride or ride a horse. A number of small eateries line the banks of the lake. The Mahabaleshwar city market and the S.T. bus stand is about 2 km from the lake.

The drive through the Ghats amidst the cloud was nothing short of magic. At every turn, there was a waterfall that was more beautiful than the previous one. I lost count of the number of times I actually had to stop to admire and click pictures. Finally, when I vowed not to stop till I reach the fort the biggest surprise beckoned me out of nowhere. The inexplicable beauty of this Waterfall mesmerised me and I was hypnotised by its beauty. I stopped and admired it for a long time, among the chatter and squeals of tourists taking pictures. A few could not resist the temptation of taking a shower in it and their joy rubbed against me and made me very happy.

The journey inside Pratapgad Fort had a huge impact on me and thus I have penned a dedicated blog earlier. I am leaving behind the Link for my readers to visit the article and read it in detail. Please click below.

Pratapgad Fort- The valour of Shivaji Maharaj

In the evening I returned to my pad for the night – Grand Resort located amidst the forests of Mahabaleshwar. After an eventful day, I slept off with the therapeutic sound of the rain drops and the croaking of the toads looking for a mate. It was a day well spent!

Day 3: Harihareshwar:

The next morning I woke up with the excitement of a 5-year-old. I love the sea and its beaches and today I was driving to cross over the mountains to reach the plains and all the way to the sea. The distance was just 115 Kms and I was all set by 9 AM to kickstart the journey. The Rain Gods was equally ready that morning and the heavy downpour resulted in almost zero visibility.

Thankfully the first 30 kms was the same I traversed the previous day and thus it was easy to navigate through the downpour. In between when the rain took a break the valley played hide and seek and it was too tempting not to stop. I was on a holiday and I made the best use of it capturig the beauty of natures kaleidoscope unfurling in front of me. At that time I was oblivious to the fact that something unbelievable is going to happen in some hour’s time.

About 50 Kms after crossing the Pratapgad junction I first encountered the Savitri river flowing towards the sea as if in a mad rush. It was raining mightily with the aimless gust of wind bewildering the raindrops of its direction. Fortunately, the Ghat road was empty and I was crawling through in wide amazement while the fury of nature was on display. This is what I set out to experience, yet there was a trepidation that started to creep inside of me.

I tried to remain positive and eschewed the inner feeling. Soon, the Google Maps stopped working as the mobile network went out of range and there was nobody on the roads to assist. I used my fair sense of judgment and continued further. I enjoyed the drive through single-lane roads amidst dense vegetation on both sides. Suddenly, about 500 metres away I could villagers standing on the road. As I drew closer I realised the roaring Savithri river have usurped the road and swallowed it completely.

The villagers suggested I turn around and take the Islampur road because the water recedes in 5-6 hours that too if the rain stops for a couple of hours. I was very low on fuel due to my lackadaisical approach at Panchagani. I inquired about the nearest fuel pump to learn that I have left it 70 Kms behind me. The next one is almost equidistant about 50 Kms away in the new route I was supposed to take.

I have driven all across India and my experiences have made me very apprehensive of the sense of distance of villagers. I am sure travellers like me would understand what I am referring. How many times have the 5 mins drive been a never-ending journey or has the next mile been a stone’s throw away? Thus trying to keep a concerned tone I enquired how they manage to fill up their vehicles?

This enquiry opened up Pandora’s box and tested my ability to listen patiently for 15 mins. The discussion started on the apathy of the Government towards construction of a bridge that is been built for over 2 long years; while the river plays its truant every Monsoon, leaving them marooned in their own land. It went on to multiple aspects of governance but given my patient hearing I soon learnt the police station stock fuels for villagers and I should make us of it.

I thanked them for their valuable input and switched on the ignition and stared at the fuel meter. Slowly the numerical 50 Kms to an empty tank showed up ! Naturally, I switched off the AC and drove in Eco mode keeping an eye for the Police station. On reaching there, I decided against buying the fuel given the constables confident claim of the fuel pump just 30 Kms away. Thankfully, he was right and I reached the Pump just in time.

The remaining part of the journey went as per plan without any astonishment. I reached the MTDC Harihareshwar Resort around 3 PM and the view took all the fatigue away. I am grateful for travelling to many magnificent places on this planet and this place is surely one of those that I can never forget. The romance of the River Savitri teasing the Arabian Sea and the mountains witnessing their courtship was a spectacular sight to behold.

In the evening I went to the Harihareshwar beach but had to retire early because the showers came back with full force. On the way back I coaxed an Auto driver to show me the solitary Liquor shop. It had limited options thus it would be better for readers to plan their own recreation. I picked up a few beers and retired to my room to finish the novel that I started at Panchgani.

Day 4: Bankot- Diveagar- Mumbai

The next day was quite hectic as I covered a lot of places that I have mentioned subsequently. Initially, my plan was to halt he night in Diveagar, however due to fresh pandemic restrictions, the hotel cancelled the stay and refunded the funds promptly. Therefore, I had no choice but to drive back to Mumbai. I will surely recommend my readers to stay in Harihareshwar for a few days if possible and I can vouch that nobody will regret this decision.

After a heavy breakfast, I started for the Ferry terminal only to arrive after first Ferry set sail. The next one was 30 minutes later, that provided me an opportunity to visit the Shri Harihareshwar Temple also known as the Kal Bjhairav Temple.

I could not visit the Shukl Teerth as it was closed due to the Monsoon. The viewpoint is accessible beside the temple and takes not more than 10 mins. It is to be noted that the trek backwards is uphill and can be tiring. The waves at this point have created a portrait on the rock that is beautiful and is rarely seen in the face of this planet.

I was back to the Ferry point on time to cross over the raging Savitri river for my journey to the Bankot Fort. Seldom tourists visit this wonderful fort and I believe it would remain a hidden gem till the time a bridge is built over the river. The journey to Bankot was a story of its own and thus I have written a blog about it in the past. I am sharing the link for my readers to find all the details required to travel here.

Bankot Fort- On a trail of the Maratha empire

After touring Bankot Fort I returned back to Harihareshwar and drove all the way up to Diveagar beside the sea. This picturesque road can easily be compared to the Great Ocean Road of Australia in terms of the beauty of the coast. To drive my point I have put across this video for my readers to watch and decide for themselves.

Shrivardhan beach: Shrivardhan is located about 20 Kms from Harihareshwar. A small town overlooking the Arabian Sea provides one of the stunning beaches in the State of Maharashtra. The beach is about a couple of Kms and the sand is soft albeit blackish in colour. In low tide, the beach turns into a swimming pool and thus is a delight for kids and adults alike. In the monsoon, the sea becomes quite choppy and thus one should not venture when the Red flag is up. There are quite a few good resorts to park and chill too. I loved every bit of the town.

Kondvill beach: Kondvil is a fishing hamlet and does not catch the attention until one pass 100 metres to a turn where the road goes up the hill. The view from this point was mesmerising as the waves lapped onto the beaches. A perfect spot to take shots for your Instagram post and make your friend envious. Try it out!

Diveagar Beach: Diveagar a well-known beach of Maharashtra is located 185 Kms from Mumbai and is a popular weekend destination. The beach is around 4 Kms in length and remains quite isolated at most parts of the year. The drive on the beach road parallel to the beach is quite enjoyable. There are about 4-5 entry points to enter the beach.

Diveagar is so beautiful that I would have really wanted to stay back. However, as fate had different plans I started driving around 4 PM towards Mumbai. As I zipped past the wonderful highways of India I started reminiscing the past few days on the road. Surely it was a journey that helped me discover new destinations of Maharashtra. I am now looking forward to the next Monsoon to venture out in search of new pastures.