My weekend escapade at Daman

My first encounter with Daman was for a notorious reason across the pages of history. The East India Company was trading in Opium from Kolkata and was exporting it to the Chinese coast. Without getting into the morality or illegality of the trade it was one of the most important windfalls for the British treasury.

The deteriorating balance of Payment with China due to new found love of Tea by the British aristocrats had put the British treasury under threat. Even the so-called Cash Cow (India) was unable to fill the British coffers which lead to the indiscriminate trade of Opium. The harm inflicted on the Chinese population was beyond imagination. Slowly and steadily the number of addicts kept increasing while the British Parliament and Crown turned a blind eye.

Poppy became the cash crop for the British Raj and they created a fantastic supply chain on the Eastern coast. The trading and export of Poppy started from Calcutta( now called Kolkata) because the cultivation was widespread over Bengal and Bihar. The Parsis and the landowners in Marathwada soon sniffed out this opportunity and Damn came into the forefront!

Thus the trade, albeit illegally started from the coast of Daman and hence my earlier reference. At one point in time, the smuggling routes from Daman were smuggling more Opium than the British Raj. The British were very concerned due to the loss of revenue and that probably led to the birth of Mumbai.

The British manoeuvred a prolific entrepreneurial masterstroke and announced that any product can be exported from the Mumbai port by paying fees on the quantity/weight of the goods. Overnight the most dangerous contraband became a legitimate product and the smugglers became legitimate traders.

Let me assure you I am not going to take you on a historical trip! But, I thought it is important to set a context on the pages of history. The obnoxious wealth garnered by the Traders are unimaginable but in contrast, the farmers remained in a pitiable state. Unfortunately, they continue to languish to this date, being easily misled into believing, what their native masters want them to believe.

Without digressing further let me kill the melancholy and get back to the magical journey to Daman. One of the key motivations for Mumbaikars to visit Daman is to have a weekend of revelry. Liquor is very cheap as it is a Union territory ( Dadra and Nagar Haveli) and thus the taxation is milder. Tourists especially from Gujarat ( alcohol is banned ) flock here to get rejuvenated in the weekend and probably return back with a throbbing headache and a hangover to welcome the Monday blues.

What is fascinating is that the liquor ban in Gujarat will always ensure that Daman will always remain a hotspot for smuggling. It is geographically located in such a manner that one has to enter Gujarat even to drive down to Maharashtra. Since liquor is banned in Gujarat thus legally speaking nobody can carry a bottle even if they are travelling to any other state apart from Gujarat.

However, everybody would be filling up their stock on the way back home. I am sure the law enforcement agencies in our country have far bigger problems to worry about than a few bottles carried by tourists for personal consumption. Therefore almost every car leaving Daman is probably involved in smuggling consciously or unconsciously.

I have no intention to label my readers as Smuggler and therefore let me be upfront that I am not hinting anything. The previous statement is the vaguest one I have written and I would prefer my message remains a grey area for the greater good of the State and people.

Traffic is always at the top of my mind for any Mumbaikar and I am not alien to this trauma. Thus I left my home by 8 AM knowing quite well that I won’t be able to check in to my hotel before 2 PM. I drove at a snail pace in spite of the excellent road conditions and still managed to reach my hotel at 1145 AM! I chose The Deltin at Daman which in the hindsight was not a good call.

With all my relationship management skills behind, I presented my case and was pretty sure of getting an early check-in. To my surprise, I was turned down with curtness, camouflaged in false politeness. I recollected hearing about a Dhaba close by and decided to check it out for an early lunch and drown my disappointment in some cold chilled beer. After all, it’s Daman!

Jagjit Veera’s Da Dhaba:

A Punjabi Dhaba was the last thing which I imagined to find in Daman and that too of this epic proportion. Thus, deciding to have a meal was an easy call. The entire get-up was akin to the many Grand Dhaba which I have encountered driving along NH-2( The Great Grand Trunk Road). It was like walking inside the memory lane, though present on the Western Coast of India. I am not very sure if my readers will experience a different thrill owing to this but I sure did!

Sharing a hyperlink of my detailed review and my YouTube video for my readers to enjoy a visual journey. To me, this was one of the best points of my trip!

After a fantastic meal, I was earning a comfortable bed and decided to head back to my hotel and enjoy my afternoon siesta. Thankfully the room was ready and the bed, the air-conditioned was perfect to hit the bed immediately. Just before that I played a light piano instrumental on my Ipad and set a 5 PM alarm to get to the beach. Just for records, it was 3 Pm when I disappeared into a dreamland.

I got up at 5 PM thanks to the alarm and headed towards Devka Beach. I read a few reviews which boasted about the picturesque and unspoilt beach but what turned out was nothing short of a disappointment. The road beside the coast was under construction and thus was unfit to drive on. However, it would be a fantastic boulevard for the future in line with some of the beautiful coastal cities of the world

Devka beach:

Looking at the present state of affairs I left the car on the main road and walked back towards the rocky beach. During low tide, the black rocks come out alive providing different imagery of a beach in our minds. Inspite of that I stayed put on the road, away from the beach as the twilight was spanning out beautifully across the sky amidst the fluffy white clouds. There were a few vendors who frequently enquired if I need a beer but I politely declined every time. While this is illegal as per the boards put in by the authorities this is a thriving trade that keeps everyone happy

Soon it turned pretty dark and I decided to head back to my hotel and spend the night in leisure.

Daman gets quite hot during the day. Thus I had an early breakfast and started driving towards Jampore beach around 9 am. The traffic was light and I reached the beach within 30 mins. I was thrilled on reaching the seafront and was welcomed by kilometres of Boulevard on the sea road. Seldom, do we come across such wonderful town planning in India and I was quite happy to just drive around. It was magnificent and I can vouch if in Daman do not hesitate to visit Jampore beach

Jampore beach:

Before I provide a commentary of Jampore beach let me take some space out to appraise my readers about the geography of Daman. The river Daman Ganga divides Daman into two parts: Nani Daman ( Nani means small) and Moti Daman( Moti means Big). Contrary to the literary translation Nani Daman is larger in size than Moti Daman. Thus the major hospitals, supermarkets and residential areas lie in Nani Daman.

Moti Daman primarily has the Daman fort and houses the Government and administrative offices of Daman. Henceforth, I will make a reference to the location so that my readers are able to relate it in their minds.

Jampore beach is one of the significant attractions in Daman, located about 5 kilometres from the Moti Daman Jetty. The beach has a tree cover that provides respite to the hot sun and allows one to relax and have a good time with friends and family. The water is a bit muddy in colour ( not to my liking), yet it was quite a sight watching beachgoers rolling and tossing themselves on the waves.

The beach offers entertainment for one and all. The children can have a ride on Horses and Camels. The adults can try out Parasailing, beach scooters and various other water sports on offer. There were a lot of food stalls offering fast-foods which was in high demand throwing caution to the wind of Covid protocols. Visitors can even go shell hunting or build a castle on the sand.

Like all the beaches in Daman, I found a large board warning visitors against Alcohol consumption on the beach. The authorities are very consistent in not enforcing this declaration in letter or spirit. Every other vendor offers chilled beers and tourists lap it off the stall to enjoy with their family and friends. But, let me declare that I could not spot any misbehaviour

Christmas is celebrated with a lot of fanfare in Daman and thus December is the best time to visit. However, any time is good except the monsoon and it is beneficial to visit during sundown to get a view of the fantastic sunset and twilight on offer.

I spent about 45 mins clicking pictures and then decided to move on to my next destination.

Moti Daman Fort:

• Recommended duration : 3 hrs to cover all the below mentioned spots

The drive to Moti Daman Fort beside the sea was extremely enjoyable. The boulevard stretched till the road meets the river in Moti Daman Jetty.

I took a right from the sea-facing Fern Hotel Tents and drove round the boundary walls ( Lighthouse road) to the front entrance of the Fort. The entrance is too narrow allowing a single vehicle to enter or exit at a time. I cautiously entered the fort and was immediately struck by the beautiful Portuguese architecture. I felt transported in the pages of history as I slowly drove by the lanes inside the fort.

Bom Jesus Church: First Stop inside Daman Fort

My first stop was the Bom Jesus church owing to its proximity from the entry point. The beautiful church will catch the attention of one and all irrespective of religious beliefs.

Out of the various holy places, the Cathedral of Bom Jesus is one of the most popular ones. Built-in 1603, the structure is still beautiful. The astounding design, expert architecture and fine craftsmanship surely reflect the passion with which the Portuguese built this cathedral.

Daman has some of the best churches in terms of the designs of the altar. I am sharing a short video of the ones which you should not give it a miss.

Daman Lighthouse: 2nd Stop inside Daman Fort

The Lighthouse is sure to leave an imprint on your mind. Every tourist who visits Daman and Diu loves this site. I would recommend a duration of 1 hour. The picturesque view of the sea will be etched in memory for a long time. Take some time out absorbing the view and click as many pictures as possible to envy your friends on social media.

Dominican Monastery: 3rd Stop inside Daman Fort

Situated inside the Moti Daman fort area, it is commonly referred to as the Ruined Church. Most travellers visit this archaeological landscape to witness its curiosity provoking sight, but a majority of them are unaware of its history of the Portuguese colonial era. It was considered the most prestigious church in the territory during that time.

The monastery is believed to be erected in 1567 in remembrance of Saint Dominic. Christians offered their prayers, and theological teachings were provided to scholars who moved to the monastery from across the globe. Formerly a Catholic monastery and a place of worship, Dominican Monastery is a representation of historic ruins bearing testimony to its own glorious past.

It also served as the headquarters of theological studies and had attracted many catholic scholars from far and wide places. When one enters the place, it mesmerizes them with the sight of the beautifully engraved floral stone dotting the main altar.

The construction workers who built the church employed the classic Portuguese architectural methods. The visitors get to observe the monastery’s arches and walls that withstood the earthquake, which otherwise destroyed the other structures.

The Catholic community celebrates two significant occasions at the monastery each year. The first one takes place on 2nd February when the community assembles at the site to listen to the stories, narrated by the clergy, about the monastery’s history. On the second occasion, which comes about on every third Sunday of December, the Catholics conduct the holy mass to commemorate Saint Dominic and the departed souls who lost their lives to the earthquake.

Chapel of Lady of Our Rosario: 4th Stop inside Daman Fort

Located inside the Moti Daman Fort, the Chapel of Our Lady of Rosary was built by the Portuguese in the 17th century. It is one of the oldest religious monuments in Daman. The Gothic-style building stands in an overgrown square which also contains the ancient tombstones of the Portuguese settlers.

It is believed that the idol of Mary of Rosary was fixed on the altar as a gesture of thanksgiving by the Portuguese for escaping the wrath of the Maratha forces led by Shivaji.

After finishing my tour of the Fort, my heart was yearning for more. Thus, I took it on myself to visit the

Our Lady of Remedios Church:5th Stop inside Daman Fort

The Chapel Of Our Lady Of Remedios is situated very close to the Moti Daman fort. The church is easily accessible, located just a 7 minutes drive from the main entrance of the fort. It was constructed as a chapel in 1607 by Ruy de Mello de Sampayo, Governor and Captain of Daman at that time. Located in a residential area, thus the area is quite calm and serene.

The intricate design will clearly take your breath away. An interesting feature of the church is its entrance. It has a charming white cross bearing some flowers and also some words in Portuguese.

It was almost 2 hours past midday and was famished. However, I decided to head straight to Nani Daman and then find a cafe or restaurant close to the Nani Daman Fort to have a quick lunch.

Nani Daman:

The region mainly comprises several Gothic-style churches, a Lighthouse, the famous Nani Daman Fort and an old Jain temple featuring 18th-century glass murals and paintings. There is also a local Dubai market that has everything at a very reasonable cost.

On reaching the Fort I parked my car beside the boundary wall and found a nice cafe called Infinitea Cafe where I had a bite before heading inside St. Jerome’s Fort

St Jerome’s Fort

This huge fort is also locally known as the Nani Daman Fort. The most conspicuous part of this place is its magnanimous gateway that faces the river. Standing tall, the Lighthouse offers a magnificent view of the sunset.

There is a large statue of St. Jerome, one of the most eminent fathers of the Catholic Church, inside the fort premises. The complex contains other attractions namely the church of Our Lady of the Sea and a Jain temple. The fort on the whole offers a beautiful view of the fish market below and the hustle-bustle that comes along with it. The scenery is beautiful and this is one of the most pretty and popular tourist attractions.

It was a long day and the last night at Daman. So I decided to head straight back to the hotel and enjoy a hot bath in the hotel bathtub over a glass of wine. Rest is for your imaginations. Signing off from Nani Daman for the night.

Udvada was not a part of my itinerary and I landed there more by coincidence than plan. However, I have no qualms in declaring that it was the high point of my trip and it left me more informed and wiser not only about the Parsi community but also about the magnificent diversity of my country.

I am leaving behind a link to my blog on Udvada for my readers to enjoy.

Click the link below :

Udvada a Parsi Town

I hope this journey of mine is informative and will help you plan your trip to Daman and its surroundings. If you do have any further questions please feel free to leave your comments and I will try and answer them to the best of my abilities. Looking forward to your support to share and like the blog. Thank you. See you soon with a new blog.