The Residency & the First War of Indian Independence

My quest with the Residency

The Residency, earlier called the British Residency comprises several buildings that at one time served as the residence for the British Resident General and representative in the court of the Nawab. The Residency is located in the heart of the city, in close proximity to prominent landmarks of Lucknow like Shaheed Smarak, Tehri Kothi, and the High Court Building.

Overlooking the River Gomti (a tributary of River Ganga), this historical site in Lucknow is engirdled by gorgeous gardens and lawns. On a whole, the Residency is an architectural marvel in the city of Lucknow and a must-visit for all history buffs who are on the quest to learn and experience Indian history up close and personal. Needless to say, this was my first stop in the iconic city of Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh.

I reached the Residency gate around 11 am morning with my friend Smita, who was born and brought up in Lucknow. During my Lucknow circuit, I was extremely lucky to find her vacationing in Lucknow, and I seized the opportunity by appealing to her Lucknowi Tehzeeb. Almost immediately, she with all her kindness agreed to accompany me and double up as a guide. I always believe that stories shared by locals are invaluable as they pass through word of mouth for centuries and provide the best ingredients to write an article.

Lucknow can be very hot especially when the sun is in the mid sky and thus I would recommend the traveler to wear comfortable clothes and shoes. The entire trip will take around 2-3 hours and involves walking around a lot thus a good pair of shoes is a pre-requisite. I was dressed in my gym clothes and Smita came wearing a traditional Cotton Salwar Kameez and a dupatta wrapped around her head and face to keep the hot wind pricking the skin.

Knowing me well she was the one who recommended that I should make start my tour from the Residency. As Smita went to the ticker counter I stared towards the ruins in front of me praying in anticipation of what is going to come ahead. The Residency is a living testimony of the 1^st War of Indian independence of 1857 also known as the Sepoy Mutiny in India. During this 5-month siege by the freedom fighters there was large-scale damage to all the buildings due to constant shelling and I prayed that conservation work is being done by ASI(Archaeological Survey of India).

Soon she was back with 2 tickets and I clicked on them before walking toward the security guards. Each ticket has a unique QR code that is scanned by the security guards on their mobile phones and allowed to pass by without any security check. At a distance, I could see a large gate and it continued to become larger as it drew closer. Finally, the Residency started appearing in front of my own eyes from the pages of my school history book.

Bailley Gate:

Standing underneath the entrance gate Smita remarked the gate was constructed by Nawab Saadat Ali khan in the honor of Capt. John Bailley when the latter became a resident of Lucknow in the 19th century and thus the name. She continued that during the early days, there was a practice of Guard of Honour that was started by the Nawab of that time. For the next few seconds, I experienced a very strange occurrence. It was as if I was in the middle of a motion picture and soldiers beside me are running helter-skelter towards the Bailey gate and the freedom fighters rushed towards the Residency.

I am not clairvoyant by any stretch of the imagination but this vision must be a result of years of wonderment at this historical incident. Probably that is why my brain forced me to see things that are not present that too in mid-afternoon! I was back to my senses when Smita called my name and I found her 20 meters ahead while I was standstill under the Bailley gate.

Embarrassed I told her that I was lost in my thoughts and I did not hear her for some time. With a frown on her face and hands on her hip she pointed her fingers toward a large board set up by ASI and asked m to go through it.

I decided not to cross my guide anymore and as a studious student went on reading. During the war of Independence, I learned that this gate was under the command of Lieutenant Robert Hope Moncrieff Aitkin from the 13th native infantry. Later on, he won a Victoria Cross for his bravery during the War of Independence, but never got a hand on the medal.

The gates were banked up from inside with Earth and a battery for 18 pounder gun to stop the siege. However, the freedom fighters attacked with gusto and it was badly damaged. Lt. Alexander while walking in front of the gate died of a stray shot. In recent years the gate has been conserved as visible in the picture that I have posted.

Treasury:

On the right side of the Bailey gate, lies the ruins of the Treasury. This was a double-storied building that was decorated with Rajput & conventional Awadh Arches. The estimated cost to build this was ₹ 16,687 at the time of construction and the equivalent of $17000 at that time. During the Sepoy mutiny, the building was converted into an Ordinance factory for manufacturing Enfield Cartridges which was the primary reason to start the Mutiny. The building suffered extensive damage and the mark of Canon shot and bullets are still visible to date.

A marble plaque is inscribed that honors the troops that fought with bravery. This memorial is believed to be built later unlike the other parts of the building since it is still intact. The Residency complex houses the graves of around 2000 soldiers that sacrificed their lives during the freedom struggle of 1857.

The ruin of the Treasury is a great spot to take pictures. The blue skies visible through the red brick windows provide amazing contrast. There are multiple interconnected rooms and thus a great spot for children to play Hide and seek too. I proposed to my guide if we can play hide and seek but was unfortunately outrightly dismissed

Dr. Frayer’s house:

Back on the pathway Smita pointed to another large building on our left and declared, ” We have arrived at the house of the Resident surgeon Dr. Frayer. There were multiple rooms that opened into the garden and each had staircases connecting to the rooms above. In one of these rooms, a swimming bath was found along with a kitchen”.

Knowing that it takes me some time to explore and observe she parked herself on a seat and told me to take my time. Thus I went about from one room to another trying to imagine the bygone era. It was interesting to note that there was an underground room primarily built as a refuge for the hot weather of Lucknow. Incidentally, women and children were quartered here during the siege of 1857. In fact, Brigadier General Henry Lawrence was moved here after being mortally wounded and finally breathed his last on 4th July 1857.

My very knowledgeable guide informed me that Brigadier General Lawrence was one of the key proponents to push reforms in the administration of the Sepoys through various Governor generals. He pointed out multiple defects that had to be eradicated to avoid any insurrection among the Sepoy ranks that could instigate major civil unrest. But a bullet never selects a target worthy to be killed and so an unfortunate tragedy happened when he passed away after fighting for his life for 2 days

Banquet Hall:

As I came out from Dr. Frayer’s house I could not find my guide and thus came back to the pathway looking for her. Just opposite Dr. Frayer’s house, I spotted a magnificent building that looked to be one of the largest I have seen so far. Naturally intrigued I started walking towards this building while looking for a board to find further details about it.

Within a few minutes, I found a display board that provided details of this Banquet hall. With my guide still not in sight I decided to carry forward with my explorations. I have no doubt in my mind that it was one of the most pompous buildings at that time. Even at present time, I noticed a lot of local youth spread across the building premises. Some young couples were either giggling or being cozy at their chosen corner seats beside some large pillars. A few notwithstanding, oblivious of everything else were busy creating reels for their followers. There was an atmosphere of festivity all around that I quite enjoy.

The Residency after the siege was turned into ruins and restoration work is still in progress to bring it back to its former glory. Only time will probably predict whether the damages of the canon ball can be diminished!  I took a lot of pictures and uploaded a few in this article although I am not sure whether it will help to imagine its true testimony of the Nawabi magnificence.

The information board described that the hall boasted intricate carvings on the tall arches along with high ceilings and large hallways. The ceilings were furnished with costly chandeliers reflecting across multiple mirrors strategically placed at all corners to provide the best glimmer from the reflection of light

A fountain was present at the main entrance to welcome guests with honor. The huge banquet hall was mostly used in the honor of the Nawab. There were many silk divans to lounge, have a drink, and chat while the guests wait might wait for their food to be served at the table. The fine furniture in the hall was complimented by the high-quality workmanship in the building. A stucco fireplace at the first-floor level still remains with its marble-like finish. The kitchen I observed was present at the backside of this building

The leftover of this magnanimous structure helped me wish that one day it can probably be restored to its former glory and will draw tourists from all over the world to witness how a policy of the British instigated the diverse set of communities in India to unite and revolt against their colloquial rulers.

Residency- Main building

The visit to the Banquet hall was to my heart’s content and I was getting a sense that the tour is only going to get better. My next destination was by far the most important main building of the Residency. After coming out of the Banquet hall I spotted my guide in one corner speaking agitatedly over the phone. I needed no explanation that its a work-related emergency call and thus went about on my own with a pertinent question, ” Will we Indians ever cut ourselves out from work in our vacation or our sense of ownership and responsibility will always eat away at our personal time? I would leave my readers to decide what’s best for them.

A large portico catches the attention on reaching the Main building. It extended to a wide and lofty veranda accessible through spiral stairs throughout the inside of the building. There were numerous lofty windows and the roof was protected with Italian bars. It was common to have an underground room due to the harsh summers and it was not an exception in this building too. During the siege of 1857, European ladies and children were housed in these underground rooms.

At present, this famous heritage attraction built in the pattern of a European villa is serving as a government office. It also includes a museum along with the tomb of Saadat Ali Khan – the first Nawab of Awadh.

1857 Memorial Museum

My next stop was the 1857 Memorial museum which was the annex building of the main building. At the entrance gate of the museum, I found my lost guide who looked to her former gleeful self. I realized she has been able to successfully fire fought the office problems and was ready to share some further insights about the Residency.

After enquiring how was the experience at the main building she briskly mentioned that the model of the Residency is available inside the museum and this is the best place for me to get a glimpse of the past, through literature and paintings displayed inside the museum. She was indeed right and left me with more information than I could have imagined.

The clay model representing the buildings of the Lucknow Residency was prepared by Sir Thomas Moore in 1873. It was initially exhibited in the central hall of the main Residency building in the presence of Viceroy Lord Northbrook during his visit to Lucknow in 1873. The location and measurement of the buildings were taken from various drawings and after careful survey, together with the description obtained from the owners and servants of the houses. The name of the structures as they existed before 1857 are plotted carefully. Surely recommend at least 10 minutes beside this model. For this reason, I have not photographed or shown it on my YouTube channel.

I have used a rare and grim portrait as the master picture showcases that violence is never a solution to any problem because there will always be collateral damage leaving behind a grieving family who will work for revenge. Mahatma Gandhi said “An eye for an eye will turn the whole World Blind” The first War of independence was a result of years of suppression forcing ordinary soldiers looking to quench their hunger for their families, to take up arms. This mutiny left about 2000 people dead in Lucknow itself!

The left side of the portrait shows Henry Lawrence shot dead while seating upright on his chair. I have mentioned the incident in the earlier paragraphs too. On the right side is the portrait of Susanna Palmer a 19-year-old who went away too soon. She was hit by a canon ball in this room itself. Even a good cause can suddenly feel mindless when we analyze it in hindsight!

Wife of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah of Lucknow, Hazarat Mahal was also known as the Begum of Avadh. In addition to being gifted and having irresistible physical charm, she had an inborn genius for organization and command. She seized control of Lucknow in association with the revolutionary forces and set up her son Prince Birjis Qadr, as the king of Avadh. Incidentally, she had to run from pillar to post but made her retreat with fortitude. All promises of allowances were also rejected by her as she had unrelenting hatred towards the British. In the end after bearing misfortune and misery throughout the period of resistance, she found asylum in Nepal where she died in 1879.

The Archaeological Survey of India considers this entire complex of national importance and thus takes care to preserve all the leftover assets. The gardens along the Residency have been well maintained with the proper restoration of the buildings. This has turned the place into a good visiting historical destination for many tourists around the year. A dungeon with 44 stairs there is also a cemetery near St Mary’s church where more than 2,000 defenders were killed and buried. The remaining portions of the buildings are equally interesting for the visitors.

Photography is allowed inside the museum but Videography is not.

Begum Kothi

By the time we came out of the museum, it was around 130 PM, and my biological clock reminded me of lunch. The mind started sniffing the smell of Tunday Kebabs that was clearly nowhere in sight. The urge for food forced me to request Smita to speed up the rest of the tour. The request fell on deaf ears as my guide was now ready with more information while I salivated for the Kebabs.

The Begum Kothi was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-daula but sold it to Sacville Marcus Taylor, an assistant resident. The possession changed hands frequently in periodic intervals. Malika Mukhdarah Aliya popularly known as Vilayati Begum ( Foreign wife) was the European wife of Nawab Nasir-ud din Haider. After the death of her husband, she continued to stay with her mother and step-sister Ashrafunnisa in this Kothi.

Ashrafunnisa was instrumental in building a Mosque and Imambara adjacent to Begum Kothi. This is the only building built in the traditional architectural style of awadh unlike other buildings of residency

With this, we came to the end of our tour of the Residency. On reaching the exit gate I turned around to get a last glimpse of the crucial piece of history before bidding adieu

There is a weathered epitaph near the grave of Sir Henry that reads “Here lies the son of Empire who tried to do his duty” while another nearby grave reads “Do not weep my children, for I am not dead, but am sleeping here.