How to reach Divar Island:
The only mode to enter/exit Divar Island is through a ferry accessible from 3 major points
- Old Goa called the Piedade/ Goltim terminal
- Ribandar Ferry Point called the Navelim/ St. Pedro terminal almost on the South
- Naroa terminal in the north to Divar Island
- There is also another Terminal called Amboi Terminal connecting the Vanxim Island in the North also known as Capao Island
- Distance from Panjim- Aprroximately 10 Kms
Timings of Ferry:
All updated details of Ferry routes are available on the website of the River Navigation Department. Please Click
Ferry Fares:
A princely sum of ₹7 OR ₹10 for a 4 wheeler depending on the Ferry terminal. Passengers travel for Free. Unbelievable isn’t it?
Best Time to Visit
Divar Island can be visited all throughout the year. Notwithstanding there are 3 major events that are celebrated on the Island, thus if the time of travel can coincide it would be icing on the Cake!
- Potekar: A festival quite similar to Hallloween wherein locals dress up in various costumes with mask and seek snacks and bevarges across all households. It is Celebrated over three-day event before the start of Lent/Ash Wednesday that normally falls in the month of February/March
- Bonderam: The word is originated from the Portuguese word “Bandeira” which means flag. During the Portuguese rule the rulers devised a plab to solve property dispute in this manner. The villagers used to demarcate their boundary with the flag and it also signify their protest against the Portuguese ruler. With time the tradition remained though there is no cause to put up flags these days. Symbolically it starts by holding a flag and playing a brasss band, followed by fancy dress competiton and float parade. It is celebrated with great fervour on the 4th Saturday of every August
- Feast of Our Lord Redeemer: This is a traditional feast celebrated in the month of November. The image of the Lord Redeemer was brought from Europe by a gentleman called Ferao Goltim and kept in his house. The image of the lord Redeemer is considered to have miraculous power by devotees, who believe that their wishes are fulfilled on the sight of this image. Therfore the house where the image resides is treated as a chapel in present
History of Divar Island:
It is said that the name “Divar” comes from the Konkani word “Divvadi” where “D” is pronounced as “R”. This is the version I believe though there are other logical versions too, that I leave to the interpretation of my readers. For example, some say ‘Divar’ is derived from ‘Devallem’ or ‘Devola’, meaning Hindu temples. The other popular version is that it comes from ‘Dipavatti’ meaning a village (vatti) of lights (dipa). Yet, another version maintains that the name comes from ‘Devipavatti’, a place (Vatti) surrounded by many islands (devippa).
Divar island was the home of Hindus of Old Goa. Shree Saptakoteshwar in Naroa, Shree Ganesh temple in Navelim, Shree Mahamaya temple in Goltim, and Shree Dwarkeshwar temple present here attracted devotees from far and wide in the 16th century. Soon came the Portuguese who took control of Goa and the religious persecution followed. Many of the villagers were converted and yet a handful of the population managed to escape and got shelter mostly in the present-day state of Karnataka.
The final nail on the coffin was a dangerous plague that hit the island of Divar and thus it was abandoned. At a later point, Goa was Christianized and the temples were shifted by Goan Hindus to other places in our country. The ancient site of what was once a pilgrimage is called ‘Porne birth’ ( Konkani for old pilgrim spot).
I have often wondered why do I keep going back to Goa in spite of losing count of the innumerable trips to this enchanting land. Being a believer of destiny and I am still seeking the purpose. My optimism gives me hope that I am very close to discover the meaning.
I can never be tired of watching the waves lapping at the beaches which I visit every year as a pilgrimage. Nor can I get bored of my special hangout zones of North Goa. There is no doubt in my mind that Goa stands solely for its sand, sun, beaches, booze and chilled-out lifestyle.
I have read many articles of the virgin Goa and found them sheer exaggeration or should I politically state literary creative independence. Thus this article of Divar is not a promotion of Goa on an unbeaten track instead of my search of Bharat and the real Indian culture and history which abandoned this small island 400 years back
Thus let me start with a standard disclaimer that Divar Island is not an alternative to Anjuna, Morjim, Ashwem or Arambol. It is enjoyable to drive around the island that provides contrast to the blue of Goa through uninterrupted patches of Green. The added advantage being a chance to get close to raw nature and a ginormous amount of fresh air to fill up our polluted lungs abundantly
I am describing this journey taken on 16th August 2021, that started from Morjim in North Goa. The drive took about 1 1/2 hrs and was indeed refreshing passing through beautiful and isolated country roads. I entered the island through the Norao Ferry point where the services are available every 15 minutes. The ferry ride lasts less than 5 minutes
A word of caution for my traveller friends who are travelling through this Ferry point to enter Divar island. Always board your vehicle in reverse as the other bank have no place to turn around. I was not aware of this nor was I enlightd by anyone resulting in me driving in reverse for about 50 metres to get a spot to turn around. I hope this tip will help unless and otherwise, ofcourse one is desperate to test their driving skill!
Divar Island is exactly like a postcard countryside village tucked away in dense woods amidst the beauty of nature. Most part of this village is still unexplored and unexploited by tourism or commercialisation as it is disconnected from city life. As I drove through the solitary road passing a row of vintage Portuguese style houses I felt I have driven to a different nation. The eye-catching properties were interspersed between traditional churches and the entire island surrounded by green paddy fields.
My initial notion was to just drive around the island and stop over for a glass of Urak in one of the local bars. My first stop was spotted by accident and I decided to stop over due to the beauty of the church.
The church built between 1591-97 is named after the Apostle of Jesus, Mathias. It was afternoon when I landed to find myself, to be the only visitor. Having time by my side, I moved like a sloth reading whatever the signboard has to offer.
The church has eight altars and the main altar is dedicated to St. Mathias – the Patron of the Parish. There is ground right in front of the church just enough space to allow to capture the whole church in the frame. I also learnt that the festivities of Bonderam passes through the church
This is the spot which was the main motivation behind visiting this island. However, nature wanted me to sweat a bit and wanted me to make an extra effort. Thus Google Maps took me for a spin as if in a labyrinth. With nobody in sight and the mobile signal having bid farewell, I could sense it was as close yet was far from my eyes. Then came the showers in full force making me run back to my car to fetch the umbrella.
By this time I think the Gods were contended with my effort and took pity on me and thus a bit ahead of the road I amanged to discover this special spot. Unfortunately, I could not take great shots as much as I intended to due to the downpour and thus captured as much as possible through my eyes.
The simple translation of Porne Tirth means an ancient place of pilgrimage. Earlier it was referred to as Koti Tirth. This was the sacred site of Saptakoteshwar Temple, the Kul Devta or family deity of Kadamba kings, which was relocated.
The temple was first mutilated in the 15th Century by the Muslim invaders. But, the Vijayanagar dynasty rebuilt it before the Portuguese took the shameful onus to completely destroying it in 1540. Currently, an irregular-shaped tank is visible and has a temple-like structure. The ruins were unkempt yet it appealed to me as I could feel years of history buried probably never to come alive ever!
For some incomprehensible reason, I felt a heavy heart as I was about to leave this site. So I made a silent promise to come back once again after researching about these ruins in detail. I hope I will be able to uncover some stories of the past. My next destination is the Showstopper of Divar Island and one which commands one of the best panoramic views from the island.
This was the first church built by the Portuguese in Divar island, located on a hilltop. It is believed that the church is built over a Hindu temple destroyed by the Muslim invaders in the 15th century. It is estimated that this church was built in 1700. The white coloured structure with the greenery all around is a treat to the eyes.
The church had a soothing effect in it blue and white, probably more so being a Bong! Is the satire lost in translation? Well, I was referring to the ancient city of Kolkata being painted by Blue and White in the last decade after one political party coming to power! Well mine is an apolitical travel blog so let me get back to context.
There is a captivating tale about the church bell. It is believed that the ringing of the original bell used to result in the cracking of the glasses of the church and thus was exchanged with the bell of Se Cathedral located in Velha, Goa. The beauty of this site is the peace all around and the panoramic view of the Mandovi river in the distance.
There is a cemetery that is believed to be the resting place for the rulers of the grand Kadamba dynasty. A small chapel in the cemetery was once an ancient Ganesha temple believed to have been destroyed by the Portuguese. The deity of the temple was later shifted to a new temple in Candola. Nevertheless, I could not find it and there was nobody else to seek for guidance during my visit.
I should start by asking whether one should stay overnight in Divar? Personally, in the evening my heart wander around Cafe Liliput in Anjuna or Mango tree at Vagator and thus I would always head back to town. Nevertheless, if somebody wants to stay in silence in the middle of nature Divar island is a good choice. For that purpose, Island House Bed & breakfast is quite popular and clearly gives a sense of a royal stay.
I also heard Moradia dos Quadros is quite popular too though I have not been there. For the luxurious traveller, The Devaaya Retreat is a good bet.
I had this wish of having a coffee in the lobby of the Island house which was completely overruled by the management. Rejection led to exhaustion and it was that time of the day when the afternoon was migrating to evening. This morphosis reminded me that my time for intermittent liquid fasting was over and with alacrity in my heart I headed to the local bar at Divar.
Try out ‘Urak’, which is a milder version of the cashew fenny, though let me warn you it will not appeal to the Scotch taste buds. But there is no dearth of alcohol and great sea food. I ordered for a fish Thali and a beer to mix the food properly inside my gut. I am sure you agree with me about this choice!
Contended with my little feast I made myself comfortable at the back seat of my car and slept for half an hour. Just for records, I take “Inemuri” (a Japanese technique of power nap) very seriously. I am absolutely not going to reveal, how I manage this at my workplace but there is no harm for readers to let their imagination take wings to solve this mystery.
After half an hour of sheer bliss, I came back to Planet Earth and and demanded a Black coffee at the same bar, only to be turned away with laughter. This insult was an indication that my fruitfulness on this island is over and it was time to move towards North goa. But, before I sign off driving through the magical paddy fields towards Ribandar Ferry point, let me share a few other places of interest that can be covered during the drive to Divar.
For Cycling enthusiasts, please check the website of Make it happen a tour curator which is quite popular
There are also a few places of interest near Divar island which can be included in the itinerary
- Dr Salim Ali bird Sanctuaty– It does not require an Orinthologist to visit here.
- Basilica of Bom Jesus– There are new guidelines on appropriate dressing. Please do note
- Augustinian Convent– A beautiful ruin to reflect some time with oneself
I would love to hear what you feel about Divar Island and please comment with any additional information which is interesting. Signing off from Green and clean Divar Island!
